What's the other part? History. This wide, four-lane street -- which starts where Pleasant Valley changes into Grand Avenue, then wraps around Lake Merritt -- has seen and survived the many changes of time, fashion, and taste. Nowadays, the talk on the street is that Grand Avenue is experiencing something of a renaissance. Both new and old shops are experiencing more foot traffic, and people are lingering longer at the movie theater and coffee shops.

It's been a while since the area's enjoyed such popularity, and now it seems to have fulfilled its fate, as predicted by The Oakland Tribune in 1887: "Oakland to-day is classed among the handsomest cities in the U.S.; and when it shall have constructed her grand boulevard around the beautiful lake, [it will occupy] a romantic place in the very heart of the city."

Today the avenue is a relaxed and easygoing social center, despite the constant flow of traffic that often makes it difficult for pedestrians to cross.

A good first or last stop (depending on when you'd like to kill a couple of hours) is the Grand Lake Theater. Built in 1926 and similar in design and feel to the Castro Theatre in San Francisco, the Grand Lake was one of three movie palaces, along with the Fox Oakland and the Paramount, that Oaklanders visited to escape the depression years. In addition to films, the theater also had live concerts. You can still experience the old-time grandeur when the Grand Lake has its weekly rendition of the Wurlitzer mini-concert (every Friday and Saturday night). The organ rises up out of the floor -- along with its conductor -- and a short set of show tunes is played before the film starts. Grand Lake Theater is at the corner of Grand and MacArthur.

The Coffee Mill & Bakery: This is Oakland's oldest coffee place, and it makes a great people-watching spot. For the past 30 years, locals have gathered here to hear spoken word, sell their homemade crafts or display their paintings on the shop's long walls. Besides the usual coffee drinks, you can get sandwiches, soups and salads. Outside there is a small patio to linger in while you bask in the afternoon sun and watch the parade of SUVs. 3363 Grand Avenue, (510) 465-4224.

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